Gold vermeil is sterling silver coated on all significant surfaces with gold of at least 10 karat, at least 2.5 microns thick counted as fine gold — that is the US Federal Trade Commission’s definition in its Jewelry Guides (16 CFR 23.4). Gold plated means a layer of gold over any metal, often brass; the FTC accepts the term for an electroplated layer of at least 0.18 microns of fine gold. Gold filled is a much thicker layer of gold alloy bonded mechanically to a base metal, making up at least 1/20 of the weight of all the metal. Outside the US there is no such definition of vermeil that we know of, so describe what the piece is.
The FTC definition of vermeil, phrase by phrase
The FTC rule says a product may be called vermeil if it consists of “a base of sterling silver coated or plated on all significant surfaces with gold, or gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness, that is of reasonable durability and a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to” 2.5 microns of fine gold. In practice:
- Sterling silver underneath. At least 925 parts per thousand silver. Gold over brass or copper is not vermeil, however thick. See how to check 925 silver.
- All significant surfaces. Not just the front of a pendant.
- Gold of 10 karat or more.
- Reasonable durability. All areas must be thick enough to give the coverage a reasonable buyer would expect. The layer need not be equally thick everywhere.
- Thickness counted as fine gold. The FTC’s own example, in its rules for gold plate: a layer of 12 karat gold counts as half its thickness in fine gold. A layer of lower-karat gold has to be thicker to qualify.
- Throughout. The rule sets the minimum “throughout” the coated surfaces. It does not say that an average over the piece is enough, so measure the thinnest areas too.
- Nothing hidden in between. If the silver is first covered with a base metal such as nickel, and then gold, the FTC says you must disclose it.
Vermeil, gold plated and gold filled compared
| Type | Base metal | Gold layer (US minimum) | How long it lasts in wear | What to call it in the US |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gold vermeil | Sterling silver | Gold of 10K or more, 2.5 microns of fine gold | Long; when it wears through, silver shows | “Vermeil”, e.g. “18K gold vermeil” |
| Gold plated | Any metal, often brass | Gold of 10K or more, electroplated, 0.18 microns of fine gold | The shortest — the thinnest layer | “14K gold plated” or “14K gold electroplate” |
| Heavy gold electroplate | Any metal | Gold of 10K or more, electroplated, 2.5 microns of fine gold | Like vermeil; the base metal differs | “Heavy gold electroplate”, with the karat |
| Rolled gold plate | Any metal | Gold alloy of 10K or more, bonded mechanically, 1/40 of the metal’s weight | Usually longer than electroplate | “12K rolled gold plate” or “gold overlay”, with the karat |
| Gold filled | Any metal, often brass | Gold alloy of 10K or more, bonded mechanically, 1/20 of the metal’s weight | Usually the longest — the thickest layer | “14K gold filled” |
Wear always depends on the piece and the wearer: a ring rubs far more than a pendant. The rules for plated and filled gold are in 16 CFR 23.3.
What you can put on the label in the US
The FTC Jewelry Guides apply to manufacturers, suppliers and retailers alike, and to labels, adverts, product names and any other marketing (16 CFR 23.0). Your product listing counts.
- Put the karat right before “gold”. For a gold-alloy layer, the FTC lists “gold” without the karat in front of it as possibly misleading. Write “14K gold plated”, “14K gold filled” or “18K gold vermeil”, with the karat as prominent as the words.
- Call it vermeil only if it meets every condition above. If it doesn’t, “14K gold plated sterling silver” is accurate — as long as the layer meets the gold plate example: 10K or more, at least 0.18 microns of fine gold.
- Disclose any base-metal layer between the silver and the gold.
- Don’t stamp “14K” or “14K/925” on vermeil. It is mostly silver, and the FTC gives “14K/Sterling” on a piece with more silver than gold as an example of a misleading mark (16 CFR 23.8).
- Never call gold-plated brass “sterling”. “Sterling” means at least 925 parts per thousand silver (16 CFR 23.5).
The guides are the FTC’s view of what is deceptive. They don’t bind anyone by themselves, but the FTC can act under the FTC Act against claims that don’t match them.
Outside the US
- UK. We know of no UK legal definition of “vermeil”. Under the Hallmarking Act, a gold coating on a silver article is ignored when deciding which hallmarks are struck, so gold-plated silver is hallmarked as silver (Schedule 2, paragraph 14). Whether your pieces need a hallmark is covered in our 925 guide; an assay office can confirm.
- EU. We know of no EU-wide legal definition of “vermeil”. Describe the piece plainly — “gold-plated sterling silver”, with the karat and thickness — and check the rules of each country you sell in. Jewelry worn against the skin must meet the REACH nickel-release limits, so ask whether there is a nickel layer under the gold.
How to read our vermeil offer
Our gold vermeil is gold of 10 karat or more over 925 sterling silver, equivalent to at least 2.5 microns of fine gold — so a layer below 24 karat is made thicker to reach it. The minimum order is the same as for other finishes: 30 pieces per design per plating colour for your own designs.
Before you print “vermeil” on a label, settle three things with any maker, including us:
- The karat of the gold layer. It goes on your label.
- How the thickness is stated. The FTC counts it as fine gold, so a lower-karat layer must be thicker.
- Any layer under the gold. If there is one, it must be disclosed.
If you will sell the pieces as vermeil in the US, tell us when you ask for a quote. Your sample is the moment to check the colour and finish.
Care and what to expect
- Gold wears where it rubs: ring shanks, clasps, the backs of pendants and the inside of hoops.
- Keep it away from perfume, chlorine and cleaning products. Take pieces off to swim, shower or work out.
- Clean with a soft dry cloth. Silver polishing cloths and dips can remove gold.
- Store pieces apart, dry, so they don’t scratch each other.
- When the gold wears through, the silver underneath can tarnish there like any silver. Because the base is still silver, a vermeil piece can be re-plated.
A short care card in the box sets your customers’ expectations.
How to check the thickness
- X-ray fluorescence (XRF) measures the gold layer without damaging the piece.
- A cross-section under a microscope measures it directly, but destroys the piece.
- Ask the lab to measure several points, including the most worn ones, and to report the karat of the layer as well as its thickness.
We send pieces from your order to a third-party laboratory for plating thickness on request, at cost — useful when a retailer asks for proof. You can also send your own inspector.
Sources
- FTC Jewelry Guides, 16 CFR 23.4 — vermeil.
- 16 CFR 23.3 — gold plated, gold filled, rolled gold plate, gold electroplate.
- 16 CFR 23.0, 23.5 and 23.8 — scope, silver, more than one precious metal.
- UK Hallmarking Act 1973, Schedule 2, paragraph 14 — gold coating on silver.
- REACH Annex XVII, entry 27 — nickel release.